For those who have not visited Toronto’s Kensington Market, it is a historical neighbourhood in Toronto filled with divebars, head shops and a variety of vintage clothing boutiques. Wanting to learn more about vintage clothing and it’s relation to cultural appropriation, we caught a bus to downtown Toronto to ask some questions.
“Let me tell you, vintage is not a different culture, that’s a misconception; vintage is basically western. There is no culture involved, it’s the first world countries and that's where the history remains,” said Rahas A.
Rahas is the owner of Breathless Vintage, a vintage clothing store located on the south side of Kensington Market for the past 28 years. Rahas stated that he feels that vintage means that a garment was well made in North America. “There is no mixed culture in vintage, just first world countries,” said Rahas. “Third world countries don’t have any history of fashion, only the first world countries have fashion.”
However, not everyone sees eye to eye with Rahas. “I was in India last year and I found a lot of vintage Pakistani clothing, so no I don’t agree with that,” stated Sandyaa Murray. Murray is an employee at Dancing Days, a vintage and bohemian clothing store which has been a fixture on the south side of Kensington Market for the past 28 years.
Appropriating the Past
Taking a look at how vintage clothing vendors feel about cultural appropriation in fashion
So, who’s right?
After pursuing Breathless and Dancing Days, you can find clothing from non-western countries in both stores. Breathless had a variety of Russian-style ushankas, Scottish-style tweed touring hats and a pair of indigenous-influenced swim shorts. There were also handmade scarves from Bangladesh, however, Rahas admitted to them not being vintage. “People like vibrant colours,” explained Rahas.
Dancing Days featured a variety of harem pants, which originated in countries such as India, Pakistan and Nepal. They also offer a number of garments featuring religious deities such as the Hindu deity, Ganesh. This is something Murray has mixed feelings about. “If I see someone wearing a shirt with Ganesh, and they’re out at a bar drinking, I disagree [with that]. And if I see a white girl wearing a bindi at rave and doing drugs, I totally disagree with that,” said Murray.
"Third world countries don't have any history of fashion, only the first world countries have fashion." - Rahas A.
"If I see a white girl wearing a bindi at rave and doing drugs, I totally disagree with that. - Sandyaa Murray
It is difficult to draw the line with appropriation in vintage fashion, due to the fact that much of it is based on western culture. However, to say that vintage fashion only comes from western culture shows that there are multiple perspectives on historical forms of appropriation.
Some of the hats available at Breathless Vintage , including Russian-style ushankas. Photo: Matt Burley
Top: Dancing Days has been a vintage destination in Kensington Market for the past 28 years.
Bottom: Rahas A. has owned Breathless Vintage for the past two years.
Photo: Matt Burley
Some of the garments available at Breathless Vintage, including a Scottish-style tweed hats and scarves from Bangladesh. Photo: Matt Burley
Dancing Days features a wide variety of vintage and bohemian clothing from around the world. Photo: Matt Burley